Kagoshima, Kyushu's southernmost major city, lies deep in the heart of Japan's archipelago. The city's history is rich and colorful, as it was the former seat of one of the Shimadzu, one of Japan's most powerful feudal clans.
People traveling to Kagoshima will find a variety of activities—from nature hikes through ancient cedar forests to festivals in the spring to celebrate the blooming of cherry blossoms. For art enthusiasts, Kagoshima is a treasure trove of amazing discoveries where they can enjoy the rich history and unique techniques involved in producing Kagoshima crafts.
Kagoshima is a rare place in Japan where you can find a unique craft culture that has evolved for over 700 years since the rule of the Shimadzu family. During the feudal era, Kagoshima was exposed to and influenced by other countries, giving way to significant developments in industrial modernization.
From delicate glassware to pottery featuring intricate paintings and cutouts, Kagoshima's craft scene will give you a distinct view of Japanese history during the Edo Period.
You may have seen them—cut and colored glasses with intricate patterns. These beautiful pieces are Satsuma Kiriko Glassware.
Satsuma Kiriko is made by layering colored glass over transparent glass and features intricate patterns carefully cut to reveal different color gradations and shapes. Glassware is not typically associated with Japanese art, but Satsuma Kiriko has a remarkable history and technique.
First created during the Edo period, the 28th head of the Shimadzu family encouraged making Satsuma Kiriko glassware. He wanted to modernize Japan and create high class products to trade with other countries. However, less than 30 years after starting, production stopped due to the death of the family head. At that time, it was also a tumultuous period for Japan. It was not until a hundred years later that Satsuma Kiriko glassware came back to life.
Through a talk with one of the workers at Shimadzu Satsuma Kiriko, who specializes in cutting the glass's intricate patterns, we learn that she was one of the pioneers who restored Satsuma Kiriko. She recalls how, in her mid-twenties, she studied old documents and remaining works to learn how to revive the art. Through this, she felt a connection to the craftsmen of the Edo Period and hopes to continue this connection through the pieces she now creates.
Other countries around the world also produce cut glassware. However, Japan's Satsuma Kiriko is exceptionally praised for its vibrant colors and subtle gradations between colors. Such a feat is achievable only through masterful cutting skills.
Making Satsuma Kiriko glassware is a rigorous process that requires patience and a lot of skill.
Shimadzu Satsuma Kiriko is made entirely in-house, from the molding of the glass to the final cutting and polishing. More than half of the other places that create Kiriko glassware only do some of these processes.
Traditional Satsuma Kiriko pieces feature one bright color layered on transparent glass. Recently, however, they have been experimenting with adding several layers to create different color combinations.
Walking through the workshop, you can see the process of molten glass being formed, patterns being carved, and polished pieces turning into colorful works of art.
To create the glass vessels, colored and transparent molten glass are layered and fused together before being blown and molded into shape. The glass pieces are then carefully marked with lines to create the pattern. Next, the glass must undergo roughing, cutting, wood wheel polishing, brush polishing, and buffing before it is a finished work of art.
You can see the craftmen’s skills at every step of the process as they carve intricate lines and curves into the glass to create a unique pattern. The result is meticulous work that becomes a stunning piece of art. When you run your hands over the finished glassware, you can feel the different textures carved into it.
Next to the production area is a gallery shop that displays all the different Satsuma Kiriko products. Wherever you look, the objects sparkle with beautiful colors. You'll see cups and bowls, but they also have other products, like glass decanters, jewelry, and other accessories. The pieces aren't cheap, but they are worth it. When you look at each one, you can see the craftsmanship and care that went into hand-crafting each piece.
Shimadzu Satsuma Kiriko
• Address: 9688-24 Yoshinocho, Kagoshima City, Kagoshima 892-0871
• Telephone number: +81-99-247-2111
• Email: info@satsumakiriko.co.jp
• Opening hours: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM
Aside from glassware, Kagoshima is also the home of two unique styles of pottery—Shiro and Kuro Satsuma.
Throughout history, Kagoshima has been at the forefront of Japan's modernization. This is evident through a type of pottery called Shiro Satsuma.
Shiro Satsuma means "white" Satsuma—a type of Japanese earthenware with an off-white cream color, giving it the feeling of delicate elegance. It is covered with a glaze that contains small crackles that can only be seen up close. Typically ceramic ware for the upper class, Shiro Satsuma features intricate hand-painted designs.
Shiro Satsuma was exported overseas in the late 19th century as a specialty product of Kagoshima. Over time, the technique and designs of the Kagoshima pottery have changed to align with the taste of buyers and collectors.
The Chin Jukan Kiln is a 15-generation family business that produces satsuma ware. They make both Shiro and Kuro Satsuma but focus primarily on Shiro Satsuma. Visit their area, which holds a production space, a museum, a garden, and a shop. The museum exhibits works made by all 15 generations of the Chin Jukan family. You can see how the styles have changed through the different periods and the creative innovations in their pottery.
Shiro Satsuma pottery is mainly handmade, with different steps you can see taking place in the various rooms at the Chin Jukan Kiln. Making the pottery requires intricate and detailed work by specialists at each stage who throw the clay shapes, cut out details, and paint. Each piece goes through the hands of many artisans who have to work with the clay at the correct level of dryness for each step. When you have the finished product in your hands, you can see the artistry of each piece.
The Chin Jukan Kiln is also home to a cafe serving food with the pottery it has produced on-site, allowing you to enjoy and use the ceramic ware. Most of the food served is Korean style, a nod to the roots of the Chin Jukan family. Each dish features ingredients that are good for the body. You can enjoy bibimbap, Korean noodle soup, and sweets like Taiwanese soybean pudding. The cafe overlooks a beautiful garden and is the perfect place to relax and enjoy Kagoshima pottery.
Chin Jukan Kiln
• Address: 1715 Miyama, Higasiichiki, Hioki City, Kagoshima 899-2431
• Telephone number: +81-99-274-2358
• Opening hours: 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM (except for 1st and 3rd Mondays)
Have you ever wanted to make your own pottery to take home? You can try it at Ryumonjiyaki Kiln.
Ryumonjiyaki Kiln specializes in producing Kuro Satsuma called Ryumonji ware and has been around for over 330 years. It is a unique place because all the clays and glaze materials are collected locally and processed in the workshop. Other places rarely make clay and glazes from locally collected materials like this. When you visit the workshop, you can observe artists make new pieces, see the unique "climbing kiln," and shop for finished pieces to take home.
Kuro Satsuma or "black" Satsuma is another type of Satsuma ware. It is made of clay rich in volcanic ash and abundant in iron, giving the clay a black finish. After shaping, the piece is covered with various glazes. While the higher class often used Shiro Satsuma, Kuro Satsuma was more used by the common people.
Twice a year, a special fire-burning kiln called a climbing kiln is used to fire many pieces as certain glaze finishes can only be achieved using this kind of method. The climbing kiln contains five rooms and fires about 3,000 pieces of ceramic ware each time it is lit. Everything about the process—from where to put the pottery to the number of wooden sticks needed to light the fire—has been determined from generations of experience. Even so, the firing is a tricky process, and about 30% of the pieces can get damaged during the process.
Make visiting Ryumonjiyaki Kiln a part of your tour so you can experience the hands-on process of making Kuro Satsuma. You can create your own piece using an artist's wheel that will be glazed, fired, and delivered later.
Ryumonjiyaki Pottery Union
• Address: 5940 Koyamada, Kajiki-cho, Aira, Kagoshima 899-5203
• Telephone number: +81-995-62-2549
• Email: ryumonjiyaki@vega.ocn.ne.jp
• Opening hours: 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM
Now that you've learned about Kagoshima, Japan's intricate Satsuma pottery, and Satsuma Kiriko glass work, why not see it for yourself? The plane ride to Kagoshima Airport from Tokyo is approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes. It's a trip that any lover of fine craftsmanship will enjoy.
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